Marchesi di Barolo 90th Anniversary at TAK Room
I was honored to spend a delightful evening celebrating the Abbona family’s 90th Anniversary of owning their winery, Marchesi di Barolo, at Thomas Keller’s newly opened Hudson Yards restaurant TAK Room. The luxurious venue, offering stunning views over the city including the Vessel landmark, was ideal for an evening of exquisite wine tasting and Continental cuisine.
Valentina Abbona, now head of the winery, and her mother Anna introduced us to the history of their estate, with strong pride in their history and tradition. The Marchesi Di Barolo wine is referred to as “the king of wines and wine of kings” due to a French Noblewoman in the early 1800’s, Juliette Colbert de Maulévrier, being the first to see potential in the wine made in Barolo, sending barrels to the Italian king. The wine was praised for its unique power, elegance and strength. The Abbona family eventually were able to acquire the lands of the winery after Juliette’s death, starting a legacy of years of hard work aiming to enrich the traditions of the winery, in memory of Juliette’s techniques, with knowledge passed from parent to child combined with modern advancements across over five generations. The family’s commitment to continual hard work has been paramount to the high standards of the winery.
We were served a range of flavorful wines throughout the evening, with Valentina explaining how their production varied. Despite being from different years, vineyards, and using methods of production, Valentina emphasised how all the wines had “the same soul.” A table favourite was the Sarmassa 2014, with a colorful dark and fruity taste that had a bit of fight in it to release its expressions gradually, which Valentina explained was due to the grapes being from a single vineyard that grew in the tougher conditions of rocky soil. Another favourite, the Barolo 2014 offered a different sharp and immediate taste, with its grapes being sourced from a blend of vineyards on the estate.
The wine paired beautifully with food from the TAK Room menu. First starters were served of fresh bread, “Super Chilled Iceberg Salad” with applewood smoked bacon and marinated tomatoes drizzled in Maytag blue cheese, followed by hand cut steak tartare. The main dish was “True Ribeye Steak” with spinach and buttermilk whipped potato. Each bite of the steak was like experiencing the delicious flavours for this first time, richly complemented by the deep and fruity tones of the wine. Dessert included an elegant “Dark Chocolate Layer Cake” and home-made caramelised popcorn.
For a range of exquisite wine options, try Marchesi di Barolo and discover more about the famed winery here. Also make sure to visit TAK Room at 20 Hudson Yards 5th floor, 10001, to enjoy a large menu of carefully made, delectable food in a timelessly elegant and luxurious setting.